Drinking Melbourne is the weekly newsletter from drinks writer Fred Siggins, unpacking what’s happening in Melbourne’s bars (and what you can learn from them), sent every Tuesday to your inbox. Get on the list here.
Welcome to Three Horses, Melbourne, the new venue from the Caretaker’s Cottage crew. The team here is absolutely packed with talent including Navarre Fenwick and Evelyn Marquet who both recently left The Black Pearl, and Josh Nicholson, previously of Hats & Tatts, plus others from the Caretaker’s stable and many more I hope to get to know soon.
Josh has trimmed his beard and is looking thoroughly schmick for the occasion in his blue apron and New York deli-style snap-button white shirt. Evelyn and Josh are on host duty, greeting guests from out on the footpath and peering through the rolling warehouse door into the venue conspiratorially, checking the room for available seats.
Regulars at Caretaker’s Cottage will notice details that have made their way across Little Lonsdale St. to Three Horses, like the colourful, foldable menus and the bold designs on the large coasters that can accommodate a cocktail and those same little tin cups for water. And much like Caretaker’s, the cocktails are smart, complex, fun and very bloody tasty.
Far less cramped than it's older sibling, there’s a convivial atmosphere at Three Horses as friends, couples and solo drinkers sidle up to the bar for a cocktail and a chat while a bartender flips the vinyl of The Miseducation of Lauren Hill, surely one of the greatest hip-hop albums of all time. The crew here don’t just want to serve, they want to talk. As much as I’m sure it’s deliberate, it feels natural and engaging in a way that’s rare.
There are a lot of people behind the bar, and the teamwork is impressive. Multiple bartenders at a time will work on the same round, or even the same cocktail, in sync. Beautifully presented drinks appear in seconds, leaving the team more time to chat. It points to the philosophical influence of bars like White Lyan (at which Libecans worked in its heyday) on the Caretaker’s and Three Horses ethos.
Photos: Fred Siggins
Co-owner Matt Stirling runs the show, offering guidance to his team here and there, but mostly chatting to guests. He speaks enthusiastically about the sherry focus of the venue, the fortified wine which features in every cocktail and is also available by the glass. The outstanding Constance Fino from Pennyweight in Beechworth is his pick of the moment, while a manzanilla from Spanish producer Bodegas Alonso is spectacularly creamy, nutty and dry. As the back of those deli shirts states in huge script, this is a place where sherry reigns.
Co-owner Rob Libecans is in Toronto for the World Class final right now, but his influence, and his true loyalties, can be seen in the Liverpool FC pennant watching over the DJ decks. They’re not good at standing still, these three mates that are building what may become one of Melbourne’s most important bar legacies. But for now, with opening week out of the way, as co-owner Ryan Noreiks says: “Maybe I can get some sleep.”
Around The Bars
Vic Distilled, the organisation devoted to promoting Victorian distilled spirits around the state and interstate, is looking for an ambassador. “The Ambassador will act as the public champion of Victorian spirits and liquors, hosting
distillery tours, representing the industry at key trade events, creating behind-the-scenes content, and serving as a trusted spokesperson across media and marketing campaigns,” according to the job description. It’s an 18 month role, with 24 hours a week, and a pro rata salary of $82,000 (equivalent to $130,000 full time salary).
To check out the job description for yourself, get in touch and express your interest at vicdistilled@liquidideas.com.au.
Have you entered your drink into the Drink of the Year Awards yet? It’s got to be a drink that has been on the list at your bar, or regularly available, for some time during the past 12 months. You’ll need a good photo of the drink, one of yourself, the recipe and some more info which you can find at boothby.com.au/drinkoftheyear — entries close 11:59PM AEDT Friday 17 October.
Boothby Staff
