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At The Lodge, a pioneering (and often imitated) Melbourne bartender gets creative

How high-end Kiwi menswear brand Rodd & Gunn is combining retail and hospitality, with cocktails by Matt Bax.

The Lodge Member's Bar in Melbourne. Photo: Fred Siggins
The Lodge Member's Bar in Melbourne. Photo: Fred Siggins

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The new Rodd & Gunn outlet on Little Bourke Street in Melbourne’s CBD is actually more about hospitality than it is retail. Its four levels comprise a large cellar wine bar, a retail shop on the ground floor, a members’ bar on level two, and a full-service restaurant on level three. Each has its own vibe and its own drinks list, developed in partnership with Melbourne’s enigmatic artist and cocktail creative Matt Bax (Der Raum, Bar Americano).

“The drinks in The Cellar are designed to complement the Italian food offering, so Negronis and Limoncello Margaritas,” Bax says over email. “The Member’s Bar is where we flex our creativity — it’s rooted in tradition but explores different presentations, textures and aromas beyond your standard drink.

“And then the Dining Bar will be classic, all about showcasing the best artisanal spirits and produce of New Zealand.”

In The Cellar, the cavernous space is lined with shelves and fridges offering all manner of wines for sale by the bottle. Behind the bar, a window peaks into the ‘cocktail lab’ — is essentially a room off the kitchen dedicated to cocktail prep. “We’ve created a dedicated creative space where we can distil, infuse and play without distraction,” Bax explains. “Having a space clear of service and filled with equipment that most bars could only dream of is a huge advantage.”

Spirits are stocked in decanters in The Lodge Dining Room. Photo: Fred Siggins
Spirits are stocked in decanters in The Lodge Dining Room. Photo: Fred Siggins

Up on level three, the gorgeous art deco architecture of this 100-year-old building is on full display in The Lodge Dining Room, high ceilings and towering windows illuminating stunning 1920s tilework. At the end of the room, a huge smoky mirror backs the black marble bar, its shelves lined with cut-glass decanters instead of branded bottles. Up here, the cocktails skew classic, with Champagne Cocktails, Whisky Sours and Mojitos sticking close to traditional formulas, but with nods to Rodd & Gunn’s Kiwi origins in the form of spirits from New Zealand.

Despite the impressive physical presence of the Dining Room Bar, cocktail wise, the real magic happens one floor below in The Lodge Member’s Bar.