At Daisy, everything just works

Welcome back to a Melbourne briefing that skips across to Geelong.

In this briefing:

Go underground for a look at Daisy in Geelong;
Non Disclosure gets a revamp;
In honour of The Black Pearl’s 24th birthday, a recipe from their archives.

Sometimes you walk into a bar and just go, 'yup, this works.' At Daisy, you leave with that feeling more than justified.With the bar recently celebrating their second birthday, I’m kicking myself it took me so long to get here despite it being a mere one-hour train ride from Southern Cross.

Heading down the stairs from street level into this warmly lit and spacious basement bar, I’m greeted instantly and guided to the long bar that runs the length of the room. That greeting and the calm, easy professionalism of the service here are the first signs that this place is a winner. Water and menus hit the earth-toned marble bartop in front of me straight away, and a lamp is repositioned to facilitate perusal.

In the mood for something refreshing and intrigued by the inclusion of raicilla (one of mezcal’s lesser-known siblings), I opt for the house Eastside, rimmed with tajin and sweetened with lemongrass syrup. It’s the kind of simple, well-executed classic twist that just works. Next up is the Afterglow, because the combination of strawberry and tomato is one for the ages, even more so when backed up by earthy mezcal and the sharp perfume of fresh basil.

Savoury and sour, it’s the kind of drink I figure will go well with snacks, because I’m not leaving here without devouring a gruyere and leek croquette; its crusty exterior gives way with a satisfying crunch to reveal a silky, molten centre heavy on the cheese. I’m also partial to the simple chargrilled chicken skewer topped with green olive salsa verde and a generous pile of pickled peppers, their vinegar and spice wonderful accompaniments to the berry brightness of my cocktail. I’m sad I ate before coming here, because the spicy fish sando and the burrata with hot honey and smoked sumac also look amazing as I watch them cross the pass.

Clockwise from top: the Afterglow; chicken skewers; Eastside; the room; the back bar; the Sesame Old Fashioned. Photos: Fred Siggins

All the while, the team behind the bar engages me in conversation (topics include: upcoming collaborations with lesser known winemakers, Babine’s recent birthday party, raicilla is awesome) and they check in regularly, exactly how you’re supposed to when there’s a solo guest at the bar, without ever being overbearing, and always breaking away smoothly when other jobs or customers need attention. It’s a quiet night, which I’m sure helps, but watching the rhythm here I have no doubt these folks can handle a rush.

For a final, fortifying tipple before heading back out into the frigid coastal evening, I order the Sesame Old Fashioned, a drink I’m told has been put back on the menu due to popular demand. It’s a sweet, salty and textural affair with salted caramel and sesame fat-washed Aussie whisky that’s not at all surprising as a fan favourite.

Another nod to local tastes is a list of shots, designed to appease those so inclined while bringing them along on the craft cocktail journey. I throw back the Dime Piece, a former cocktail that became a house favourite shot: a rich, balanced blend of funky Demerara rums, coffee and Tempus Fugit Crème de Banane makes for a perfect little pick-me-up before being on my way.

I love that the list of shots appears in the menu opposite the non-alc cocktails, which all read delicious. It’s a recognition of how people like to drink — sometimes you want shots, sometimes you want the fun of a cocktail without the booze, sometimes you want mezcal with strawberries and tomato. It’s that combination of creativity and respect for customers’ preferences which, in my mind, takes a bar from good to great.

The Last Word

Winebar to Wu-Tang. Last week, one of Geelong’s favourite cocktail bars, Non Disclosure, changed its tune with an evolution into Non Disclosure Wine Bar. Refining their focus from cocktails and spirits to fermented grape juice during the evening, after 9pm expect a more club-like atmosphere, aimed at a slightly older crowd.

A Black Pearl Cocktail From 20 Years Ago. The Black Pearl celebrated its 24th birthday on Sunday, with many friends and regulars showing up to celebrate. In honor of the occasion, I thought it would be fun to publish one of the recipes from the early days of the venue, so here’s a little number that owner Tash Conte dug up from the archives (circa 2005), which she attributes to Tim Phillips, now Global Brand Ambassador for Johnnie Walker, from his time at Pearl.