It’s not easy out there for bar operators. Double Deuce Lounge is looking for new digs, with trade being less than amazing at their Sydney CBD location (despite winning a bunch of awards over the last couple of years). Linden Pride and Neil Perry’s Bobbie’s — despite a gorgeous fit out and concept from the owner of Dante in New York (a former number one bar in the world) — was a flop for that neighbourhood, and they’ve ditched the name and retooled the concept into Bar Torino.
But as ever is the way, some bars might be struggling, but some are riding high — especially those backed by groups. Sydney behemoth Merivale is set to open its first bar in Melbourne, LB’s Record Bar, in the old Lily Black’s site tomorrow. It’ll be an agave-focused bar led by Michael and Zara Madrusan (Heartbreaker, The Everleigh). And it looks as though the last year or so hasn’t slowed the Swillhouse group in Sydney, with the opening of three new venues in a matter of weeks: a new restaurant, Barons; a jazz bar; and the reopening of Shady Pines Saloon in the old Now & Then site on Clarence Street last night.
It’s not only big groups getting new concepts open, though. Sakura House, the second bar from the duo behind The Waratah, Evan Stroeve and Cynthia Litster, opened last week in Sydney to rave reviews, and earlier in the year saw sophomore bars coming from the folks behind Otis (opening Deadwax in Enmore), and PS40 (with Silver’s Motel also opening in Enmore). That stretch of Enmore Road between Newtown and Enmore has proved especially fruitful this year, with one of my favourite bar debuts, Bar Demo, being opened by Oliver Churcher and Claudia Morgon.
Still, there are significant headwinds around for anyone opening a new bar, chief among them being the cost of booze.
“We can’t eat too many more CPI increases,” says Dre Walters in this week’s episode of Drinks At Work. We were speaking earlier in the year at the Better Bars Summit during Bartenders’ Weekender, with a live on stage SWOT analysis of sorts, looking at what makes his bars Old Love’s and Old Mate’s Place successful, but also — and crucially — looking at what he sees to be the threats to his business in the near future.
Boothby Staff
And assuming that, despite his efforts and those of the Night Time Industries Association, the excise on booze isn’t coming down anytime soon, the cost of booze is of particular concern to Dre as he looks ahead.
“In five years’ time, you’re going to be paying $35, $40 a cocktail,” he says. This will no doubt have a negative effect on the way people spend in our bars, but also, he says, on the broader culture at large.